REVIEWS

Chicago dogs find a home here

Matt's Famous Chili Dogs serves authentic Chicago hot dogs just like you'd expect to find them in Chicago - at a simple stand.

BY ANNA POOLE
Herald Restaurant Critic

- taken from the Friday, February 28, 2003 "Arts & Entertainment" Section of the Herald.

LYNNWOOD - Milwaukee. Chicago. Los Angeles. Puget Sound. That's the itinerary for this story about hot dogs and Midwest-style sandwiches.

My lunch partner, originally from Milwaukee, wanted to try a Chicago-style hot dog so we visited Matt's Famous Chili Dogs. It's a small, Spartan place tucked in a strip mall with video stores, chain sandwich shops and other small eateries. The decor's limited to an order-prep counter, drink and plastic ware station, and long rows of tables where visitors feast.

" It's a hot dog stand, not a cart," explained owner Matt Jones, who visited Chicago and made his hot dog stand just like the 2,000 or so that dot the Chicago landscape like coffee stands dot the Puget Sound area. He then researched the construction of a Chicago-style hot dog.

A Chicago dog ($2.29) starts with a poppy seed bun. Then, a skinless, all-beef hot dog, which Jones brings in from Chicago, is added. The dog's topped with mustard, optional onions, sliced tomatoes, sweet pickle relish, a hot pepper and celery salt The relish is unlike what were used to. It's neon green, very sweet and lacks a taste of vinegar. The pepper, called a "sport" pepper, looks like a Serrano. So, I was prepared for intense heat. Instead, it’s a milder version that adds its own special flavor.

According to Jones, it takes all of these ingredients - poppy seed, tomato, relish and celery salt - to create the taste of true Chicago-style hot dog. In fact, Chicago natives who enjoy his dogs here can tell when the staff forgets the celery salt, he said.

We enjoyed sharing our first Chicago dog, but if you feel it had too many add-ons consider the kiddy dog ($1.59), which comes plain, or with mustard or ketchup.

For my lunch, I ordered the "Matt's Special" sandwich ($4.49). This messy handful features Italian sausage slices smothered in melted American cheese and beanless, Midwest-style chili on a French roll. The sausage added spice and the tomato-y flavor of the handmade chili smoothed the combination into a yummy delight.

Other sandwiches include chili dog ($2.29), Polish sausage ($2.79), Italian sausage ($4.99) or Italian beef ($4.99). The Italian beef sandwich is shaved beef soaked in a house recipe au jus and topped with tomatoes, onions and sauteed peppers.

For the really hungry, there’s the "Combo” ($5.99), which includes Italian sausage and beef on one French roll. The four combo meal selections ($2.79 to $6.34) add chips and soft drinks to the sandwiches.

Jones earned his MBA in Los Angeles and created business plans for hot dog stands as part of his studies. He worked in commercial mortgage banking in Los Angeles and married a Seattleite. Eleven years ago, the Joneses relocated to Seattle and opened the first Matt's Famous Chili Dogs on Marginal Way.

" Here was a stand in South Seattle making Chicago dogs," Jones said. "I had no idea what a Chicago dog was until I bought the place. Coming from Los Angeles, I was used to chili dogs. I thought I'd phase the Chicago dogs out after about six months. Then, I realized there was no way I could do that."

So, he kept the Chicago dogs and chili dogs and added tamales, which he brings in from Los Angeles, to the menu. The plump beef tamale ($3.69) is topped with chili sauce cheese, chopped onions and tomatoes. According to the menu, it's one of the most popular items.

Then, when Jones bought a Bellevue location, he added turkey and veggie dogs ($2.79) to the menu but with the same Chicago-style preparation.

All these dogs, and one tamale, have a good home in Puget Sound.

Herald restaurant reviewers accept no invitations to review, but readers' suggestions are always welcome. Reviewers arrive unannounced, and The Herald pays their tabs.

Matt's Famous Chili Dogs
7600 196th St. SW, Lynnwood;
425-776-3220
Specialty: hot dogs, sandwiches
Hours: 10 a.m. to 9 p.m., Monday through Sunday
Price range: inexpensive
Liquor: none
Smoking: none
Reservations: not necessary
Disabled accessibility: easy access
Credit and ATM cards: MasterCard, Visa

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