REVIEWS

Here, hot dogs are haute cuisine

By Morris Malakoff, Enterprise writer
- taken from "Out & About," Friday, March 7, 2003 Enterprise

LYNNWOOD - In American food culture the lowly hot dog has been relegated to ballpark fare or toddler finger food.

But truth be told, the hot dog is a descendant of the proud European tradition of sausages. Nearly every European culture has it in some form, from the English banger to the German wurst.

In a far western comer of Lynnwood, Matt's Famous Chili Dogs is offering locals of all stripes a short but eclectic menu of sausages, served Chicago style alongside incongruous selections such as tamales and Italian beef sandwiches. And all food comes with a rim shot of humor.

The restaurant Web site, www.mattsfamouschilidogs.com, is an example.

In addition to featuring maps to the restaurant, a menu, coupons and contests, there is a message from Matt himself.

This month, Matt takes a hilarious, albeit adult oriented, look at the reality television craze. Matt's defines "Chicago Style" as any sausage served with a combination of mustard, onions, sweet relish, tomato, dill pickle, hot peppers and celery salt.

That mound of toppings on any dog is a meal unto itself. Kind of like piling a crispy salad on top of your main course.

The title dish, the chili dog, is served with a beanless chili poured over a natural casing hot dog on a bun.

The best sausage item may be the Polish sausage. Mildly hot and all beef, it is a perfect quick lunch for $2.79.

Matt's also serves a small selection of sandwiches. The Italian Beef is a warm, wet treat made of shaved top round beef on a French roll with tomato, onion and sweet peppers. Definitely not car food, it nearly requires a bib to eat. But it is worth the effort.

The Italian beef is also offered in a combo meal with chips and a soda for $6.34.

Also available is a kid dog for children at $1.59 and for the vegetarians a meatless veggie dog. If red meat is off your diet there is also a Turkey Dog, also noted for its lower fat content.

Food can be taken away, but Matt's also offers dining in. The atmosphere is spartan - basic formica tables and counters. The place is painted in bright colors. You won't have to worry about the kids doing much damage.

Matt's Famous Chili Dogs
Location: 196th and 76th Ave. W. (in the strip mall with Blockbuster Video)
Phone: 425-776-3220
Specialty: Hot dogs, tamales, sandwiches
Starting meal cost: $2.29

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